Carpets

I do like a carpet in my tent but they are pretty expensive to buy - ranging from £90 to £150. I've mentioned in a previous post that you can use pet bedding, but I've found this post on UK Campsite showing you how to make one. I'm not very crafty but it doesn't look too difficult and actually I'd like to give it a go. I'll let you know how I get on, but this lady made hers for £27 which is brilliant
Here's the link to the post
http://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/chatter/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=3&TopicID=242576&PagePosition=2

And here is the post:

Ok, so for starters I will tell you about what materials you could use (unless you have some already) You need a backing; something waterproof is a good idea, but not essential. Waterproof is useful, but it may be hard to get hold of, and can be bulky for your machine, so as I don't imagine that your tent lets water in, you could always just use a normal heavy weight fabric. But if you do want waterproof, then a good quality tarp would do, or you could get some waterproof nylon, or light weight Cordura (the stuff rucksacks etc are made of but thinner). Ask your local fabric shop/market what they have that's waterproof, and if it's not too bulky, then go with it. If you want something easier to work with (and maybe cheaper) then look for some heavyweight cotton or nylon that's hard wearing. Next you need the insulating layer (this will also make it softer under foot) I used what I had in the house at the time, and that happened to be some cheap laminate underlay that I had bought for protecting a parcel I posted - it was the thin stuff, but you can get different types. You could use a thin sponge layer, but this isn't easy to get hold of and it isn't as insulating as the underlay. The top layer pretty much depends on what you want, but there are a few points to bare in mind; firstly it needs to be hard wearing - you will be walking around on it a lot, and maybe brushing it down, so you don't want anything flimsy that will get thread bare, or snag and tear. It really is hard for me to advise you on what to use for a top layer - I would know instinctively when I looked at a fabric, but you have your own ideas about what you want, so you will have to make your own judgement on that one. I will say that you should seek the advice of whoever is selling the stuff if your not sure, but it isn't rocket science, so don't be worried about making a mistake, just use your common sense and you should be ok. I will give the following advice though: I used an upholstery weight fabric, but there are many other fabrics that would do the job eg. anti pil fleece (anti-pil means it won't bobble - but not too stretchy as it's a pain to sew) any heavy weight cottons or synthetics (you may get static from some synthetics so be cautious). I would also suggest that whatever material you do use, you stick it in the washer first with some Nikwax to give it a breathable waterproof coating. Don't know if you are familiar with Nikwax, but its great stuff, and I have been using it for years to re-proof outdoor clothing - I have just waterproofed a canvas tent with it as well and it worked a treat. Here's a Link if you want to know more. Make sure you get the right one though as they have different types. They actually do one for horse rugs which is ideal as it helps to minimise abrasion. Ok so let's get to the making bit! I will add what pics I have of the process, and explain as I go along.
I cut the backing and insulation layer to slightly larger than the size of my top fabric (will explain why later). I had to tape two pieces of the insulation layer together as it wasn't wide enough - I did try to sew it, but because of it's structure it grips the needle like glue, so after 2 broken needles I gave up and used good old gaffer tape. It would tear easily when sewn anyway, and as it stays put when sandwiched between two layers, I think the tape is the best way to go.
As you can see the the bottom layers are slightly bigger than my top layer; the reason for this was so that I could pin them all together knowing that they were all laying flat and smooth - I could then cut the edges flush without getting any pulling or creasing in an attempt to get a neat edge (if you know what I mean). This also saves time as you don't spend ages trying to match the edges up - it also ensures that you end up with the size/shape you want as you haven't had to cut into the top layer to make the edges meet. A word about the pinning; it may seem a bit time consuming, but I recommend that you insert as many pins as you can around the edge. This not only keeps your fabric together, but it helps to stop any stretching whilst sewing, and if you do happen to lose a few whilst manouvering the fabric, you still have plenty to hold it together. Top Tip! use as many pins as you can - I suggest every inch or two if you have a stretchy fabric (hold on...I'm sure I have a pic I made up for a friend in my docs........brb) blooming heck I actually found it! Take note of the way I pinned it - this is so you can sew over the pins on your machine, but you can take then out as you go if it gets tricky......my friend needs detailed diagrams lol!

Finally, you will need some sort of edging to finish it off, but it's best to sew it together first as this make adding the edging band, or hemming it, a lot easier.




Ok, so now you have a nice carpet, but the edges will be raw and will need finishing off. I added a thick cotton herringbone tape that was just folded over the edge and sewn on, but you could just fold it double and sew it (may be a bit thick for your machine though) I would recommend the cotton tape though, as it looks much neater, and is easier to attach - you can get the tape from most haberdashers or fabric shops.



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